Review – Hoxton Gin
As any market grows, it is inevitable that brands seek to expand the market by introducing products to new consumers. With spirits, this often means producing a product whose taste and marketing break new moulds in order to appeal to a different type of consumer than the traditional spirits in that category. It is no surprise therefore that someone would take the bold leap of producing a product such as Hoxton gin which claims to be “the most distinctive gin in the world” and which appeals to people who “want something different”.
Hoxton gin is the brainchild of Gerry Calabrese and is produced using alcohol derived from French summer wheat. Coconut, grapefruit, juniper, iris, tarragon and ginger are macerated for five days in neutral alcohol before undergoing a single distillation in a 150 yr old copper pot still. The distillate is then blended with neutral alcohol and diluted to bottling strength of 43% abv before being rested in steel tanks for two months.
Nose: Grapefruit and coconut dominate, although the ginger, juniper and tarragon in particular are all perceptible in the background. The combination of bold coconut and grapefruit is certainly unique, but not altogether successful.
Neat: Once again the coconut and grapefruit dominate, with the juniper very much playing second fiddle. Assertive flavours can be a very positive attribute but here the result is frankly unpalatable. The remaining botanicals make a fleeting appearance later on before the coconut returns to stick to ones palate like some sort of chemical weapon.
Mixing: If ever there was a spirit to illustrate why cocktails were invented it is this. Irrespective of an individual preference for or against the predominant flavours of coconut and grapefruit, the principle problem here is that they insist on fighting with each other for the limelight. One or other might be bearable, but together they are a disaster. An entire bottle was used in the process of trying to find something bearable to drink this spirit in, with the conclusion being that the only way forward is to beat it into submission with even more aggressive flavours; intensely floral honey syrup works well for example. I am sure that those more skilled than I in the mixing department will be able to concoct some decent libations, but that only goes to highlight their skill in spite of such an unpleasant tasting spirit.
As disappointed as I was with the taste of this product, it must be recognised that this is a personal thing and it is entirely possible that I am alone in disliking it intensely. However, I must take issue with the decision to market this as a gin. Gin you see, according to EU regulations, has to have juniper as its predominant flavour. This most certainly does not have juniper as its predominant flavour, irrespective of whether or not you enjoy that flavour. The concept of widening the appeal of gin to non-traditional gin drinkers is one that I support, but this just feels like a cynical attempt to cash in on those that don’t know better.
Hoxton gin is quite frankly the most disappointing spirit I have yet to taste. The flavour profile is not only offensive to the senses, but it strays so far away from what a gin is intended to be that it really should not be considered as such. A spectacular failure.
Rating: ★
Hoxton Gin is available to buy from Master of Malt.
★: Terrible, only drink for a dare.
★★: Meh, not undrinkable but best left alone.
★★★: Reasonable, middle of the road.
★★★★: Tasty stuff, well worth seeking out.
★★★★★: Incredible, booze doesn’t get better than this. You need a bottle in your life.
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Great review – sad to say I feel the exact same way. I still remember tasting the bottle at launch and thinking ‘what the hell? This is meant to be gin?’
Hi David,
Thanks for the comment and kind words. It’s a shame that some brands feel the only way to make non-typical customers engage with a spirit is to totally change it from what it was intended to be. I can’t see how it can legally fit in the legal definition of a gin personally, but perhaps I expect too much from something that should be ‘predominantly juniper flavoured’!
Hi Mark, completely agree with your review. Part of me wonders whether this is a way to expose gin to a wider audience who may dislike the traditional ‘ginny’ flavours. Essentially this is a Vodka in disguise. Have seen a few other products (one from a London gin distiller no less!) which have also eschewed the use of juniper. So perhaps a trend here?
I think i’d rather drink Vodka.
L
Hi Louis,
Thanks for the comment. The marketing does talk about this being designed to appeal to those who don’t like gin, to which I say “why make a gin?!” I have no problem with brands producing products to cater for different taste, but aside from the fact this one tastes crappy, it does seem like a very cynical ploy to cash in on those who don’t know better.
I rarely comment on reviews but a good friend (well a good friend up until this recent event) introduced me to this spirit in a north London pub and I feel obliged to add my two pennethworth. Even though he doesn’t have the greatest track record of suggesting drinks (he’s renowned for tinkering with the recipe for a negroni for no apparent reason), he has acheived a new low with this one.
I cannot remember smelling or tasting a more vile concoction, the coconut so overpowering (it actually smells of coconut essence) all other botanicals are mere trace elements. If you like Malibu?, Well, stick with Malibu. Like coconut cocktails? Use coconut water or coconut milk, but if you like gin or simple mixed drinks: really really don’t try this, it can only result in you hating all that Hoxton has to offer and possibly encourage you to lash out at anyone riding a fixed wheel. Filthy stuff.
Totally disagree. I have tried many wonderful gins and this for me is quite simply exquisite. Sometimes we need to get ver ourselves a little and embrace different approaches from the conservative norm. Hoxton gin has firmly established itself, with me at least, a a wonderful concoction of gin with a difference….well done La France!
Hi Keith,
Thanks for the comment. I’m not sure whether it is written in jest, certainly the France reference has passed me by. Let’s not assume because I think this is a terrible product, that it is because I only like ‘traditional gins’. You mike like to check out my review of Gin Mare for evidence. The reality is this is a gin that tastes absolutely terrible. Usually I think differences of opinion are healthy, but in this case I honestly struggle to believe anyone can find the clash of flavours in this gin even remotely palatable.
M
How I wish I had read your review before I bought a bottle of this truly unbelievable product. I can not believe it is called ” gin”. It may be a spirit but it has no characteristic of gin. I took two mouthfuls of it with my usual tonic water lime and ice and found it undrinkable. I poured the remainder of the bottle down the drain as I knew I would never touch it again. A most expensive mistake! I should have been suspicious when I read “Product of France” on the bottle. No French gin lover (I know many) should touch it!
Oh dear, an error indeed! Still, you live and learn I suppose. Do let me know if you need some suggestions.
M
Really? This is the most disappointing spirit? You may find that Pinky vodka gives it a run for its money. *shudder* “Bad spirits I have tasted”
I had he utter misfortune of tasting this”gin” last year. Absolutely vile. Like drinking sunscreen. The cloying coconut mugs your tongue from the first sip, then continues to run violent riot over the other notes. The whole experience is like being beaten up while sunbathing on the Costa del Sol.
I absolutely love this gin, the smell alone relaxes me and makes me think I’m on a deserted island somewhere! I discovered it earlier this year at a gin masterclass in Birmingham in my hen do and served it in tom Collins cocktails at my wedding drinks receptionand everyone loved them. You guys sound like you’re gin snobs! I agree it’s not good with tonic water…try with lemonade or spring water….
Hi Angela,
Thanks for the comment. I’m cool with being a gin snob if it means I don’t have to drink stuff like Hoxton!
M